2011 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

Still a pale colour and pristine sparkly flavours of ripe citrus, white peach together with old church candle wax and flower arrangements show some sprightly youth. There’s a sniff of petrol creeping in and some honeyed melding of flavour from time in the bottle. Fine ripe acidity that tingles the teeth is perfectly balanced by just the right sweetness. No cloy just integration. Is there anything better on a fan forced oven of a hot summer evening?

10.50 % alcohol. Screw cap, performing perfectly. About $50 at the time.

94 points.

2017 Wickhams Road Heathcote Sangiovese

Perhaps a first Sangiovese from those relentlessly great value and energetic Hoddles Creek chaps? Clean, fresh, bright, just medium weighted, cherry scented with a twist of mint and eucalypt forest. Really has that lip smacking, cheek flapping twang of the juicy blood of Jove. One for those who value fruit over extraction. The ripe acidity positively takes it up a notch with some simple pizza or pasta. Bravissimo ragazzi!

13.50% alcohol. Screw cap. $20.

90 deliciosi punti.

2017 Henry Fessy Gamay Noir

A Dan Murphy direct import from a business now owned by Louis Latour. For a wine made on an industrial scale this still has some charm. Bright crunchy red fruits and firm but still agreeable acidity. Some of those banana skin whole berry smells and spotlessly clean freshness add up to what’s really a bargain. Much better the second day which shows there’s some genuine fruit quality here. Not exactly Foillard  but a good choice from uncle Dan’s..er..heterogeneous offerings.

13% alcohol. Screwcap. $14.50

90 points

2017 Eperosa Magnolia Blanc

Barossa Semillon from old vines. Opened a bit yeasty and spicy with rich very ripe citrus to more exotic fruits. Over a couple of days the jangly edge settled well and things calmed down into some generous rich fruit, a touch of oak spice and some firm fresh acidity to balance. The rich yellow green colour suggests some skin contact and the acidity does seem buffered by some good grape skin texture. The whole thing looks natural and has some honest depth from terrific fruit. Big fellah with a fine sense of balance.

12.50% alcohol. Cork, oh dear. $25.

94 points.

2017 Domaine Heimbourger Chablis Cuvée Pierre

One of the joys of holidays in Paris is finding a new caviste with a small selection of consistently good choices. Even better if you realise you know not a lot about the producers on offer and the adventure keeps ending deliciously. So, hats off to the Marché St Martin again. Right from first sniff this is Chablis. Very slick wine making. Clean, almost sanitised, with a judicious seasoning of oak barrel. There’s some solid yellow and green fruit and that long, gentle but insistent acidity that makes Chablis so irresistible. So much wine, so little time and relative amounts of money. Next stop uncle Dan’s member specials.

13.00% alcohol. Cork. 18 euros.

92 points.

2016 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte de Py

Bit of a treat but in relative value terms no second thoughts. Touch of yeasty breath and then pristine ripe raspberries, freshly turned stoney soil after cool autumn rain, yeah really, glacially finishing acid and a long distance end. Incredible purity of fruit and the best sort of supporting texture. A bottle of the ‘14 was quite reduced and built for leaving alone, this seems more candid and extrovert. Very nice to meet you indeed.

13% alcohol. Cork. 22.50 euros from Julhès who had the basic Morgon for 14.50!

95 points.

 

2017 Domaine des Montèzes Carignan IGP

From Larzac in Languedoc. Perfumed and primary, really fresh and bright, mid weight, clean and red fruited, nicely ripe but still hanging onto the crunchy, firm handshake of Carignan’s acidity. The tannin lurks behind. Great favourite country cousin sort of grape. Another unwavering selection from Juhlès leading to some frantic posting.

13% alcohol. Cork. 11 euros.

91 points.