2019 Crawford River Young Vines Riesling

From a very long drive away vineyard in rural Victoria, young vines now middle aged by some measures. Concentrated, full of ripe limes, autumnal apples and something exotic like guava juice? Such intensely ripe fruit dances on beautifully modulated acidity, it tugs then lets go as the fruit swells and then pulls harder to a delicious end. There’s a comforting warmth and a latent hint of some of those hard to describe old stones and herby Riesling flavours to come with time. Great growing and making. Just gets better each year.

13.5% alcohol but carries it well. Screw cap. $34 less a bit for a drink local discount. May be a long drive for a local but it’s relative in big ancient Australia

93+ points.

2018 Crawford River Apis Field Blend

Apis, Latin for a bee, the winemaker’s affectionate nick name, got it, took a while, der. It’s a mystery what lurks in the field whence it came but a search of the encyclopaedic Winefront says there’s five percent Gewurztraminer from cold, windy Drumborg in the mix. Sort of a big field but the Crawford River property is so spacious in the possession of dirt, it could extend that far. The wine’s so well made, it had me struggling to find any evidence of cloying Gewurz perfume without reading Mike Bennie’s lovely review. In the glass, a little sulphurous reduction which evaporated quickly, then bright red fruit, raspberry and strawberry type, a lift of brown baking spices, Gewurz? The shape feels more rosé than tannic red, slippery, slurpy and round. Second day and it gets better, the fruit gets rounder and deeper, glides down on just enough strawberry acidity to freshen. My guess, there’s some Cabernet Franc at work. If only Melbourne’s hospitality were open, this would be a perfect by the glass pour with all those lovely green things dripping spring juices at the moment.

13.5% alcohol. Screw cap. 365 gms of glass and a bit of aluminium of course. The lightest, enviro friendly bottle so far. It actually seems a bit small but that might just be swift drinking. $25 rrp.

91 points but thoughtful styling bonus.

2012 Seppelt Drumborg Riesling

From another remote Victorian vineyard in the ocean breeze swept South West, another 2012 Riesling. A long and even ripening season seems to have produced fruit of glorious balance. On first sniff, I must admit to thinking the amount of residual sugar left was out of step but as this woke up a bit and warmed from fridge cold, the clip of sweetness settled like a plump cushion on the laser acid drive. Smells and flavours of lime, white peach and almost green mango with some sort of coriander pesto, the sweet green bit not that odd soapy edge of the raw leaf. Cool river water fresh in a fanciful way that brought to mind the Floyd’s Granchester Meadows. Silly old hippy. Not a scintilla of broad petro chem, just pure, beautifully grown fruit. Subtle and powerful. So good, so sad to see the empty bottle.

12% alcohol. Screwcap. $30 roughly on release.

95 points, it’s that good.