2010 Passopisciaro Sicilia IGT

From the edge of the Etna volcano where they clamber up and down tending their Nerello Mascalese vines. No enological slickness to this indeed. A medicinal tang from the less than scrupulously clean wood and a bit of lift but unusually tolerable. In fact they’re just the sort of blemish that make a French film star interestingly full of character rather than the blandness of a Hollywood performer. It’s probably the sheer strength of cherry rich and ethereally mineral fruit that that makes this normally grumpy fault zealot want another mouthful. What the Japanese call Wabi Sabi, imperfection being essential to beauty? Age seems to have melded fruit and structure but kept that beautifully dry tug to refresh. The wonky bits are really just seasoning. Hints of blood orange juice too. So good with a oily pasta, of course. Surprised to find this so delicious. The teetering balance of a lot of great fruit and a tiny bit of naughty.

14% alcohol. Cork. $50 approximately?

93 non technical points.