Italians seem to traditionally put their family name first, so perhaps it’s an azienda agricola run by Davide Carlone making wine from the only slightly obscure, in Italian terms, Croatina variety in the hills around Novara. Half the fun is learning the label code which in Italy can verge on the dastardly. Anyone for Montepulciano? Nonetheless, this is spotlessly clean, really fresh and delicioso. Loads of deep perfumed dark cherry fruit to smell and drink. The perfume is almost floral and old Catholic Church incense smelly but mercifully doesn’t cloy. All this richness and some real depth is put firmly in its place by brilliant Ital acidity and tannin. Classic Piemontese stone and earth notes add the food suggestions. Pasta, mushrooms and even non Piemontese pizza.
13.50% alcohol. Diam! $30 from Boccaccio.