2023 Martinico e Figli Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT

Time flies by and it seems there’s no posts since the end of March. When you’re not paying much for WordPress’ basic and it must be said pretty clunky site, it doesn’t help the lack of motivation. Nonetheless if you’re lucky enough to be spending some time back in the fascinating and gently hedonistic town of Trapani on the western tip of la bella Sicily, then it’s probably a good idea to note a bottle or two. What better than to anticlimax a new review with a bottle you’re unlikely to find outside the few square kilometres of the provincia itself. Close to the ancient sea wall of old Trapani is an alimentari or deli run by a passionate man who I think gave up running a supermarket to open a small business to enjoy selling things of real quality from the local area. At least, that’s what my very limited Italian grasped. Some good cheese, piggy things, olives and a sort of tapenade were all excellent, as was this bottle of one of my favourite Sicilian red grapes. The label suggests it’s made from a vineyard of only 1700 vines. A kilo or two per vine probably means only two to three thousand bottles, not exactly Yellow Tail. Nevertheless, what a delicious drink. Utterly clean, pure and just moderately extracted, there was loads of raspberries and cherries anchored by some lovely powdery soft tannins and bright acidity. Underscored by a rattle of earthy goodness, like sweet organic soil. All of a piece, no jangling and sort of like a cru Bojo for want of a better comparison. The other bit of the label says something worthy in Italian I think

If you find yourself in Trapani, the lovely man running La Deliziosa will cheerfully offer a few tastes of cheese and good things. A picture of him below, stolen from googlemaps.

The same tiny producer also makes a cracking Grillo which I reckon shares a rich but tightened by texture similarity to Palomino from that other sea salty place in Spain.

13.5% alcohol. Diam. €20.

93 points.

2023 COS Frappato Terre Siciliane

Think I’ve only tried a COS bottle once before sometime in the early 2000s. A Pithos maybe. Memories of some lovely crisp fruit and a less than sanitary visit to the farm shed. Subsequent reviews I’ve searched have veered from the spectacular to the worst of down the sink candidates. Hoping for something more the former, a splash of euros on a very recent vintage of a favourite Sicilian grape. Here goes. Opened with a reductive and a yeasty natty edge, not in the sartorial sense. Settled down brilliantly overnight to a sparkling blast of pomegranate, raspberry and waft of the sweetest herbs. So fine a chisel has sculpted bright acidity and such fine tannin, you can’t see the gaps. Perfume and flavour float. When what’s called natural wine these days is this good, it’s like the difference between a live performance and making do with a YouTube version. A bottle of supermarket Cerasuolo looked contrived and sulphur leaden by comparison. Beautiful grapes, simple.

12.% alcohol. Diam. €24 well spent.

94 points.

2022 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria

Maybe there’s a case for mixing Nero d’Avola with Frappato to make something greater than the sum of its bits? The wise regulators of Italian wine must think so, as it’s Sicily’s only DOCG. Personally in person as Montalbano’s bumbling Catarella would say, I really like the blend. Bit of chiaroscuro. This large producer’s version took a while to shed some stinky reduction. Eventually some sweet pomegranate, strawberry and raspberry, from Frappato maybe, and dark cherry bass notes, all medium of body and a swell of grainy Italian tannin and acidity bring some focus. Nice balance, grapes as good friends. Warm and friendly. Just like Sicily.

12.5% alcohol. Diam or Nomacorc, forgot. $15.

92 points.

2020 Cantine Settesoli Mandrarossa Frappato Costadune Terre Siciliane IGT

Another of Dan’s July budget savers. A close up bottle image rather than repeat the seven bottle line up again. Pretty colour label. Italy’s heritage of what seems like thousands of grape varieties is great territory for the nerd, guilty. I just about remember a tasty Planeta bottle of Frappato in purezza and a Cerasuolo di Vittoria where it’s blended with stodgy old Nero d’Avola to bring perfume and life. Not to be confused with Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo of course which is a rosato made from Montepulciano. Love Italian convolution. Good to see this on Dan’s shelves then. Settesoli I also remember were a major player in Sicilian imports in the nineties. Judging from their website, they’re still commercially powerful. Well, this is nothing like the Planeta version I remember, it’s light of weight and took a hour or two to open up after seeming washy and a bit dilute at first. With air it’s seventies disco perfume time. Fragrant with musky rose water, raspberries, almost like a red version of one of those Muscat variations. Bit challenging and odd to the red wine drinker’s expectations. Second day and the perfume’s toned down a notch, more red fruit, sort of New World Pinot Noir in shape and texture but uniquely Frappato in flavour. Spice and volcanic rocks push against the perfume. Good smear of drying skin tannin and an incoming tide of firm acidity. It finally dawned that if you were to drink this fridge cooled with one of those western Sicily seafood couscous, then it would make sense, obvious really. The thought did also occur that if I had tasted this from one of those black Riedel tasting glasses, I think I might of thought it a white made with skin contact such is the surprise awaiting here. Warning, Australian Shiraz it is not.

13% alcohol. One of those odd conglomerate corks with a disc of cork glued each end, why bother? $17.10

Started 87 points but warmed up to an open minded 91. What’s Italian for vive la difference?