2006 Poonawatta “The Eden” Eden Valley Riesling

February really is the best time to enjoy the majesty of one of the world’s best white varieties should you abide south of the equator, notwithstanding Melbourne’s summer, currently even more than usually fickle. It does seem that the quality of viticulture has improved a lot in the relatively warm growing climate of most Australian Riesling regions. Keeping fruit shaded by better canopy care has perhaps avoided the once too prevalent early appearance of those broad kerosene flavours. This old fellow is still sprite of colour and has the mellow, waxy, old incense calm of age but still hasn’t forgotten its lime and sweet young herb flavours of youth. Natural feeling acidity has settled well and there’s the slightest brush of phenolic skin and counterpoint fruit sweetness. Gentle but not lacking impact. Some kind people bring the best things to share over my attempts to make a mess in the kitchen, chiz!

12% alcohol. Screwcap once again takes the utter lottery out of opening an old white wine. A generous share.

93 points.

2012 Sons of Eden Freya Eden Valley Riesling

Cain and Able dabble in Norse mythology to produce one mythologically good Riesling. Opens a bit reduced with what a favourite reviewer over on Winefront justly describes as asafoetida, lovely word, powerful smell. As the air gets to it, things freshen up to reveal lime, waxy vanilla spice, just ripe KP mango and lemon skin oil. Structurally the acidity is natural and mouth-wateringly modulated. Really bounces with a tireless youth. Good 2012s like this are legendary. On the list in Valhalla?

12% alcohol. Screwcap. About $25 on release.

94 points.

2009 Karra Yerta Eden Valley Riesling

Cost and value are often out of whack. Only 128 measly cases of this from 80 year old dry grown vines planted up high on a hill, yet it didn’t sell. The business sadly decided to close and out it went at $150 a dozen plus freight. Ludicrous value for little cost. Starts off with toast and lime as you’d expect but there’s still a freshness and the extra depth of luscious waxy stone fruit. Terrifically long and the poised balance of clean, mountain clear acid. Australian Riesling doesn’t get much better than this, believe me, had my fair share.

13% alcohol. Screwcap. $13!

95 points.

2012 Dandelion Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling

Gentle, fine and unassuming, it’s not until this hits the back of the tongue that some just ripe fruit intensity kicks in. A pale greenish yellow colour shows how slowly this is developing. The smells are lime and ripe lemon with a touch of toast and turps. Some background sweet herbs too. Delicate for an Aussie white, it demands paying attention as you could miss the lovely fruit build as it warms in the mouth. Don’t glug or you’ll miss it. Perhaps another bottle in a couple of years?

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap. About $13 thanks to retail lunacy a few years ago.

92 points.

Another bottle at the end of May 2020, not quite two years, and still bright and ageing with grace. The fruit is more expressive and fattening up well in the mouth. As well as the citrus flavours, some white peach and green mango emerged as it aired. The turpentine note only pops up on opening and fades as the fresh fruit starts to flex. One of those vintages that’s taking time to speak up. Particularly marked by some fine, natural acidity. Another bottle in a year or two, no rush.

More like 93 or 94 points now.

2005 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling

Cooking a dinner to share can lead to a extremely generous friend bringing great wine to share, again! This is about as good as Eden Valley Riesling gets, perhaps? Rich, enveloping smells of lime marmalade, coriander and old candle wax, superb depth. The flavours are equally mouth filling and long, so long lasting. Great richness cut into shape with perfect crystalline acidity. Seriously good.

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap showing how perfect it is for Riesling.

96 points.

2017 Mountadam Eden Valley Riesling

Starting to lose its yeasty first year awkwardness. Some limey fruit finding an equilibrium with modulated fine acidity. Maybe a touch of fruity residual but with a green veggie Thai curry it just helped things along. The fruit has enough class to lend a little peachy waxiness to the finale, lifting it from the mundane. Like the best Eden Valley Rieslings, this has poise and a quiet depth. Great to see one of the fine old labels back on form.

12% alcohol. Screwcap. $23.

93 points.

2009 Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling

Starting to gain some darker gold and green colour. Classic lime and toasty smells and developing honeyed lime marmalade in the flavour department. Perhaps the acidity’s a little sour and green compared to other vintages. Not quite that mouthwatering tingly freshness nor the extended peachy ripeness which can make Julius so great.

Screw Cap. From the stack of cardboard called a cellar. Was about $20 on special and that’s rare these days for Julius.

92 points.