2019 Bodegas Pirineos Principio Moristel Somontana DOP

Moristel seems a rare one, indigenous and limited to Catalonia and a tiny bit of Aragon. It’s also becoming popular around here. Well, this is the second bottle of Moristel reviewed, coming from the cool foothills of the Pyrenees, the other from the dry hot plateau around Catalyud. This one shows it’s cooler abode in pristine hedgerow berries and brambles as England summers would make, cherries and some sweet earth. Sparkling tart but ripe acidity and a brush of sweet grape skin tannin. Sort of cru Beaujolais from a fresh cool year, maybe a comparison? Just got better over two days, impeccable balance and making, just the essence of grape, summer in a bottle. The label also carries the Barbadillo brand. For such a large enterprise, they’re increasingly producing wine of place and heritage, all the way from Jerez to the mountains now. Moristel might be difficult to find but not so rare as a Pinot Gris or Viognier review here.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. $30 RRP.

93 points.

2017 Bodegas Langa π or 3.1415 Concejon or Moristel

Moristel seems fairly local to Aragón and around. Only three and a bit hectares of it at Bodegas Langa in Calatayud, hence the mathematically symbolic name. Shows it’s from the region with a dark, dark colour and a lot of power. Sadly there’s a bit too much oak on opening and perhaps not the best seasoned with some dreaded coconut top note. Second day the fruit comes forth and nearly first, inasmuch as intense tiny berries muscle the wood aside. Lovely blueberry and blackcurranty headed toward plums. Some earthy macho Spanish landscape. Does seem a little more rounded and less butch than local Aragón Garnacha with a tighter coil of acid and softer tannin. You can still see the fruit for the wood just about thankfully. Would be better without being so lumbered though.

14.50% alcohol. Cork. 12 euros.

92 points.