2021 Adams Wein Ingelheim Spätburgunder Rheinhessen

Not sure if it was this vintage but a bottle shared over some surprisingly vegetarian food at a wine bar in Frankfurt was delicious, despite nearly asking “where’s the sausages?” Thanks to good old google, it was easy to track down this bottle in Australia, albeit not quite at the same price. I’ve always enjoyed Pinot Noir mostly when it’s not too ripe and hangs on to those exotically heady fragrances and a lightness of touch in the tannin department. From sadly too few examples thus far, the Rheingau and Rheinhessen seem to produce Pinot with the perfumes just ripe and head filling. Getting the tannins over the ripeness line may be more challenging? Anyhow, this effort from a relatively cool vintage in the context of recent seasons, certainly scratched that long lost but still palpable old Burgundy itch. Just a little development in colour, fragrant wild strawberry and an alluring musky mint thing, bit like the wild mint that’s native to Australian eucalyptus forests, still fresh and inviting. Rich in the mouth but still perfumed as it finishes with crisp acidity and just ripe grape skin tannin. Quite a bit of tang and lift that together with those wild flavours had me wondering about a bit of the horse stable, but the finish is clean. Seems to have the sweet, off the leash Pinot thing that got me into those old Burgundies. Quite an adventure and makes me jealous of those Frankfurters who have this for not much from just across the big river.

12.5% alcohol. Cork. $60 plus postage.

93 points.

2022 J. Neus Weingut Muschelkalk Spätburgunder

It certainly doesn’t have the excitement of Paris or the self importance of London but Frankfurt airport makes for a pleasant and much less fraught hub when arriving on a long haul from south east Asia. Made a lot more pleasing by the realisation that two of Germany’s great wine areas are on the doorstep, Rheingau and Rheinhessen. From a bit of reading, it seems 19th century Rheinhessen was famous for the quality of its Pinot Noir, particularly the area around Ingelheim where Neus have been making Pinot since 1881. The region’s reputation then became quite schizophrenic in the 20th century as it’s also been responsible for an enormous amount of sweet and horrible Liebfraumilch. About the same distance from the airport as downtown Frankfurt is the old town of Mainz, an easy train ride and home to some lovely old school wine bars and a couple of good wine shops. One of which recommended this bottle which more than cheered up a last holiday night in Europe. This entry level bottle in the Neus range, from less than 20kms away, opened a bit reduced but a good airing and a poised and clean mouthful emerged. Cherries, headed in flavours towards those sour Italian sorts, ripe raspberries and a dark stone mineral thing with some roasted baking spices. Excellent shape in some blood orange acidity, fresh and lightly cleansing and just a brush of fine inseparable tannins. Compared to the wild fruit sweetness of Pinot from across the border in Burgundy, this seemed strict and focused, more of a furrowed brow than an insouciant shrug. Oddly like the clichés of national personalities. And like the best sort of Pinot Noir the last half a glass left us wishing an encore.

12.5% alcohol. Ripe at low alcohol, good. Diam, good. €14.50, even better.

93 points.

2020 Prinz Hallgartener Jungfer Rheingau Riesling Trocken GG

The only bit of Germany’s vineyards I’ve explored is the very pretty riverside Rheingau. Happily there’s lots of dry Rieslings to be tried from what seems to be a lot of quality minded producers. It’s also very easy to explore by train from sky scraping towered and bankered Frankfurt. German wine labelling is still not entirely clear in my old brain but the back label says VDP Grosse Lage which I think means the vineyard is defined as being top of the quality pyramid under wine law and can be further loosely defined as Grosses Gerwachs meaning dry wine from such Grand Cru sites. Should be good then. Perfumes of white peach and citrus with a dab of vanilla bean. It’s all a bit reserved and controlled by that word…mineral..freshness and some sweet green herbiness. Really powerful as it glides on fruit sweetness and a glycerol slide of tightly bound mouth watering acidity and a touch of alcohol warmth. One of those Rieslings that’s either got a touch of fruit sugar or the fruits so dense it seems sweet, beyond me and no bad thing. Just balancing itself adroitly. Opened at the same time as a really good Eden Valley local which was rich in developed flavour with a broad burst of wide acidity. So different to the linear brightness of this Jungfer tingle, so bound into the whole. There’s some Rolls Royce power in this GG top of the range. Quite different to the Toyota reliability of a good Eden Valley to stretch a dubious metaphor.

13% alcohol, it’s ripe. Cork lottery. Thanks to a generous dinner companion.

96 points.

2024 Weingüter Wegeler Flightmode Riesling Trocken Rheingau

Good on Frankfurt airport for having a selection of Rieslings, some from the nearby Rheingau. Stopping for few days in Singapore on the way home to Australia meant a duty free bottle was a possible hotel room aperitif. Singapore may be a comfortable and easy break in the journey but it’s certainly no friend to the budget conscious wine freak. A cold beer with some good hawker spice is pretty good though. This bottle seemed appropriate as I was preparing my ancient body for thirteen hours of flightmode and a delicious reward it was for running out of interesting in flight entertainment. From grand cru vineyards and made in perhaps the older way in big old oak. A new producer for me. A bit of petrol development already but loads of fresh white peach, citrus and honeyed candle wax. A breath of aldehyde to lift the end. Some lovely flavours were carried by a beautiful lightness of feathery acidity. A cool breeze of mouthwatering lift, delightful. Like a welcome tailwind to cut the hours high in the sky.

12.5% alcohol. Screw cap. €23.

92 points.

2023 Weingut Leitz Magic Mountain Rüdesheimer Riesling Trocken

I must admit to loving Riesling but have a sad lack of experience with the best of Germany. The basic ones around $30 available in Australia are lovely on a hot summer evening but don’t seem to compete in terms of depth with locals at the price point. Spending more and it always seems to be other grapes. And I’m not a big fan of sugar, albeit, yes, the best 8% or 9% Germans do have a scintillatingly delicious balance where you hardly notice any sweetness. Planning to go through the enormous Frankfurt airport on this year’s Europe trip, the overused Googlemap app showed Rüdesheim was a hour away down the river. I picked three producers easy to reach by train and sent begging emails. Fancy being bothered by an old wine nut for a while? The nicest reply was from Leitz, please come and taste. Well, that’s lovely, yes please. Getting off the local S Bahn, a misty autumnal stroll from the pretty village of Geisenheim to Leitz was under a slope of vines just thinking of a winter doze. A warm welcome and a generous tasting took us on a trip across that slope overlooking the Rhine with peaks in the GGs. The bottles opened started with their cutely named Eins Zwei Dry and climbed up the heights of three GGs. The Schlossberg was really loooong.

For some nutty reason, Leitz seal their GGs with corks. Yes, the best expensive sort but…which is why this particular screw capped bottle seemed a good buy to take back to the hotel room that lacked a corkscrew. At a quality level just below GG, that unofficial measure of dry Riesling quality, the Magic Mountain stood out in the lineup, much closer to the GGs than the standard Rüdesheimer. Tasting at length over a couple of nights, it’s got that extra detail, depth and nuance that Riesling can do so well. Fresh ripe white peach, a touch of mango and citrus and that waxy flowery honey thing that distinguishes the best of Rieslings for me. The finest float of mouthwatering acidity to refresh, delicious. Elegant you could say. Lingers long. It’s named Magic Mountain in English as Thomas Mann had already written something in German by the same title.

12.5% alcohol and trocken. Screw Cap. €18.50.

94 points.

2016 Ziereisen Blauer Spätburgunder

A Pinot Noir from a far corner of Baden near the Alsace and Swiss border. Deeply coloured for Pinot and dark, sour cherry and plum ripeness too. It’s focused though with no over or under traits, just pure dark fruit and then a liquid rock finish sweeps in, a wild shock for those used to the evenly ploughed earth of Burgundy. Over a couple of days the geology recedes and the gentle purity of fruit gains traction. A pinch of herb seasoning and ripe acidity bring freshness and there’s just a brush of the softest velvet. Cool and calm too. Worth being patient and letting the flavours unfurl. Fastidiously clean and showing great care in the growing and making. Organic too. Nice choice, Randall, the now veteran wine merchant.

12.50% alcohol but ripe. One of those good Gualia screwcaps. $38.

93 points.

2011 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

Still a pale colour and pristine sparkly flavours of ripe citrus, white peach together with old church candle wax and flower arrangements show some sprightly youth. There’s a sniff of petrol creeping in and some honeyed melding of flavour from time in the bottle. Fine ripe acidity that tingles the teeth is perfectly balanced by just the right sweetness. No cloy just integration. Is there anything better on a fan forced oven of a hot summer evening?

10.50 % alcohol. Screw cap, performing perfectly. About $50 at the time.

94 points.