2012 Dandelion Vineyards Wonderland of the Eden Valley Riesling

Gentle, fine and unassuming, it’s not until this hits the back of the tongue that some just ripe fruit intensity kicks in. A pale greenish yellow colour shows how slowly this is developing. The smells are lime and ripe lemon with a touch of toast and turps. Some background sweet herbs too. Delicate for an Aussie white, it demands paying attention as you could miss the lovely fruit build as it warms in the mouth. Don’t glug or you’ll miss it. Perhaps another bottle in a couple of years?

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap. About $13 thanks to retail lunacy a few years ago.

92 points.

2012 Clos Clare Watervale Riesling

When it’s a sweaty fan forced summer day a glass of Clare juice is just the salve as the sun at last reluctantly sinks. Lime and toast as expected but something waxy and damp chalk like add depth and intrigue. Good weight of fruit and a crisply engineered structure with fresh but not abrupt acidity. Extra flavour of almost greenish mango as well. Lots of cooling depth to wallow in. 2012 is a delicious vintage, innit.

12.80% alcohol. Screwcap. Around $24 at the end of 2012.

94 points.

2010 Pauletts Polish Hill River Clare Valley Riesling

More Thai food and another Riesling from the pile of cartons. Nice balance of toasty development with a bit of petrol and some fine and rich, linear, lime fruit. Some crisp but not chunky acid carries it along with just a touch of residual sugar maybe or is that just dense, ripe fruit? Polish Hill River seems to sometimes combine the fat of Clare and the lean of Eden. Pauletts do this with style and little fanfare. This blows their trumpet pitch perfectly.

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap. Was about $20.

92 points.

2012 Eldredge Clare Valley Riesling

Thai nosh and limey Clare Riesling, there’s a match. This Eldredge is gently resolving with lime marmalade on toast, a hint of green mango and enough richness to stand up to a curry. The acidity is nicely firm but not hard. Good Thai by Melbourne standards and byo is one of life’s affordable joys.

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap. About $20 in 2013.

91 points.

2005 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling

Cooking a dinner to share can lead to a extremely generous friend bringing great wine to share, again! This is about as good as Eden Valley Riesling gets, perhaps? Rich, enveloping smells of lime marmalade, coriander and old candle wax, superb depth. The flavours are equally mouth filling and long, so long lasting. Great richness cut into shape with perfect crystalline acidity. Seriously good.

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap showing how perfect it is for Riesling.

96 points.

2017 Mountadam Eden Valley Riesling

Starting to lose its yeasty first year awkwardness. Some limey fruit finding an equilibrium with modulated fine acidity. Maybe a touch of fruity residual but with a green veggie Thai curry it just helped things along. The fruit has enough class to lend a little peachy waxiness to the finale, lifting it from the mundane. Like the best Eden Valley Rieslings, this has poise and a quiet depth. Great to see one of the fine old labels back on form.

12% alcohol. Screwcap. $23.

93 points.

2012 Wilson Polish Hill River Riesling

Some toast but few if any petro chem smells. Fine citrus, touch of white peach and beeswax. Pure and delicate with a rainwater like gentleness and beautiful mouth watering acidity. Properly dry, refined and relying on balance and definition rather than raw power. Held up superbly over two days. Graceful. Will sail on for a few more years yet and could even get better!

12.50% alcohol. Screwcap. About $20 I think six years ago.

94 polished Polish Hill River points.