2010 Chateau Aydie Madiran

Big and burly Tannat civilised but still bluntly true to its roots from one of its best addresses. Warm vintage and such richness. Dark plums and mulberries with a kirsch sweetness firmly kept in order by the enormously soft but firm tannin. Good spice and sweet earth too. Somewhere beneath the velvet fog lurks just the right amount of integrated acidity to hold it together. So deep and well made, the fruit just kept emerging. By day two there was a bright fresh cherry finish to match the grunt. Pauillac out of reach? It’ll be a while or never before HK billionaires realise Madiran’s a label to covert.

14.50% of well carried alcohol. Cork. $35 at auction a few years ago.

94 points.