Month: June 2023

2021 Mount Avoca Estate Lagrein

A drive to the Victorian version of the Pyrenees happily included a stop at a warm and welcoming cellar door. The hills aren’t quiet the size of those in Europe but in mid winter they may be as cold. The organic vineyards look well tended by some shivering sheep who hadn’t read the weather advice for farmers or viticulturists considering winter pruning. There’s a good range of wines to taste by a wood fire. Solid, clean and not trying too hard, letting the vineyard speak. This appealed for its rich sour cherry fruit, chocolate tannin and ripe acidity. Opening the bottle at home, there’s much more of that central Victorian mint and eucalyptus lift apparent and a good sappy tang. It always surprises how much tasting at a cellar door can differ from the relative objectivity of home. Nonetheless some lovely fruit here and perhaps an Italian mountain variety that doesn’t mind those rugged gum tree covered hills. Seems it’s the local cockatoos’ favourite grape too.

If you’re travelling in a Pyrenees way, an enthusiastic recommendation for the Avoca Hotel. Great food and a spectacular wine list. Wish there were more country pubs as good.

13% alcohol. Screw cap. $30 at the cellar door.

92 points.

2018 Yves Cuilleron Syrah Les Vignes d’à Côté

Opened at the same time as the Gravity Ghost Syrah, it’s an interesting example of how the changing climate is messing with perceptions of ripeness. 2018 was one of the hottest years in southern France and makes this look a bit like it comes from Coonawarra rather than a cooler corner of the Rhône. Lots of ripe blackberries, earthy bass with a hint of that sort of tar that lurks in good Australian Shiraz. Stone and a crumble of ripe tannins held in place by natural feeling acidity that maybe still tells of the Rhône? Very good value as usual.

13.5% alcohol. Diam. $30.

92 points.

2021 Gravity Ghost Syrah

Another less than objective opinion about a lovely human’s recent vintage efforts. Opens cleanly with a strong waft of Australian bush or terroir if you prefer. Fresh and aromatic. More than just gum trees, there’s fresh spices, sweet earthiness and wet undergrowth overlaying a core of dark raspberries with a bit of plum. Just medium weight. Same flavours as it hits the tongue together with more woody stem spice. A natural feel to soft insistent acidity and powder fine tannin. From a cooler year perhaps but no greenness intrudes. A gentle drink with enough perfumed fruit and warm savouriness to make an impression. Haunting perhaps.

13% alcohol. Screw cap. Somewhere between $25 and 30 I think? Got a bit lost in some swaps where I came out the better off as usual.

92 with a shout for 93 in time.

2010 Massolino Barolo Margheria

Continuing to open special bottles while the tasting is good, a special cru from Serralunga albeit not marked on the map photo above. Think it’s the unnamed vineyard next to the S of Serralunga maybe? Was anorak fun googling the amazing Masnaghetti MGA maps to check. The incredible detail is a joy for both wine and map fiend. I always liked Massolino’s cheaper bottles, clean, good fruit and good winemaking. Time to open a cru which ten years ago was seen as relative value and now retails over two hundred Australian. Must admit it was a blind buy for the cellar based on Massolino’s Dolcetto and persuasive reviews. It’s rare for most of us to get a taste before deciding. Not sure it would have done any good here, as I’d have been as puzzled then as now maybe. Opened well visually but the first sniff was swamped by a haze of pine forest with the hint of fresh fruit below. The palate likewise a drying, dominant pine needle flavour gives the beautiful fruit that lurks below a bit of a biff. It sort of looks like a cedary, raw oak flavour but it’s much more complicated and earthy too. All the publicity says it’s made using big, traditionally sized oak. Serralunga or barrel or both, beyond me. Nonetheless, despite the distraction there’s intense cherry, rose perfume, deep sweet stone stuff, all held in eternal tannin and pleasing acidity of real quality. I’ve a few more Massolino bottles to go, here’s hoping.

14.5% alcohol. Cork. Around $100 at the time?

Somewhere between 89 and 95 depending on how much you like pine forests.

2018 Domaine du Pélican Arbois Savagnin Ouillé

Having regained an enthusiasm for a nice glass of wine, it seems some upmarket bottles are getting opened before anything else happens to curb the fun. An adventure too. My first whole bottle of Savagnin from the Jura. The virtually unpronounceable Ouillé means the barrels are topped up to stop oxidation. From a famous Volnay domaine making wine and waves in the Jura too, what luxury. Despite the topping up, there’s a hint of flor aldehyde maybe? Green apple, honey and chamomile, marzipan and a lick of butterscotch. As rich and complex as a recent unfortified Palomino from Sanlucar, such is the alcohol warmth and weight. Likewise there’s indelibly ripe acidity to pick up the load and float the flavours down in great contrast. Teetering balance that doesn’t wobble. A svelte Burgundian touch of caramel oak to season. Certainly makes me wonder how an example from a cooler year would compare. Could be at least in the realm of reality compared to current white Burgundy prices.

14.5% alcohol. Diam. RRP around $90.

94 points.

2021 Bandesh Time to Fly Shiraz

It’s worth reading articles by Max Allen in the AFR and Anna Bailey in the Guardian where Farhad Bandesh’s arduous journey from Kurdish Iran to making wine in Australia gets some sympathetic coverage. How he survived about eight years detention as a refugee on the hell of Manus Island and still smiles when talking about Australian wine and its supportive people is extraordinary. He had a stall at a local farmers’ market one cold damp Saturday recently. It was a privilege to buy a couple of bottles and reflect on how we take such free choices for granted. Well, not only a tough, lovely human, Farhad can make very good wine too. Quite rich and ripe for a Yarra Valley Shiraz. Plenty of summer pudding berries and custard. Spice and a clean finish of intermingled fine acidity and tannin. Even when it’s pretty ripe, the Yarra Valley seems to imbue its gentle fresh touch. Just a delicious Shiraz. I also bought a 2022 Time to Fly Shiraz made from the same Grampians vineyard as Rory Lane from The Story sources his fruit, picked at the same time. Every bit as deeply red fruited and entrancingly peppery as you’d want. Didn’t take a note but happy to buy another.

14% alcohol. Diam. $35 and worth every cent.

93 points but so much more than just points. Survive and thrive.

Farhad’s wines and spirits are available on line at

bandeshwineandspirits.com

2016 Bodegas Cota 45 UBE de Ubérrima Las Vegas El Carrascal

Palomino from the Las Vegas vineyard in the pago of Carrascal de Sanlucar. Unfortified but aged a little under flor. Not just simple Palomino but a blend it seems of three different Palominos. Perhaps individual varieties rather than clones? The intricacies of the Sherry triangle vineyards are something fairly new to me, such is the dominance of brand and naming by style, Fino, Amontillado etc. Must say I’m really looking forward to visiting later in the year and seeking out the old is new expressions of what’s a special bit of grape growing country. If this bottle is any indication, treats are in store. This opens like a good Manzanilla without the weight of fortification or the old dank oak and sulphide which can mar Sherry a little for me. As it breathes in some air, it just gets better and then a bit more. Loads of saline, savoury flor challenge, beautifully measured by huge florals, yes, chamomile of course, browning sweet apple, blossom honey and yellow peach. Background of sweet drying meadow grass. All pith and fine extract. Incredible depth all floated on a caress of startling acidity and the finest grape skin chew. The best of flor and fruit, dry and confronting but pure and delicious. Nothing else like it, and therein lies the fascination. So lucky to score this at auction. Not sure what I expected but a very happy surprise.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. Current vintage is about $70aud in Spain. Better start saving.

96 points.