Having regained an enthusiasm for a nice glass of wine, it seems some upmarket bottles are getting opened before anything else happens to curb the fun. An adventure too. My first whole bottle of Savagnin from the Jura. The virtually unpronounceable Ouillé means the barrels are topped up to stop oxidation. From a famous Volnay domaine making wine and waves in the Jura too, what luxury. Despite the topping up, there’s a hint of flor aldehyde maybe? Green apple, honey and chamomile, marzipan and a lick of butterscotch. As rich and complex as a recent unfortified Palomino from Sanlucar, such is the alcohol warmth and weight. Likewise there’s indelibly ripe acidity to pick up the load and float the flavours down in great contrast. Teetering balance that doesn’t wobble. A svelte Burgundian touch of caramel oak to season. Certainly makes me wonder how an example from a cooler year would compare. Could be at least in the realm of reality compared to current white Burgundy prices.
14.5% alcohol. Diam. RRP around $90.
94 points.