Month: July 2023

Scott Wasley Selections Albero Manzanilla en rama Saca 3 2022

I thought I had posted this in August before setting off to Spain. WordPress says otherwise. So glad to visit Sherry land again. Hospitable bars, great snacks and the best value wine by the glass. If you show a bit of interest in place, grape and what slumbers in those vast rows of ancient black barrels, the bodegas will reward you with great tastings.

For over twenty years now The Spanish Acquisition have been importing some of the Sherry Triangle’s best. In the last few years there’s been a noticeable freshening in flavours and interest in these challenging savoury drinks. The amount of detail in Scott’s passionate explanation of rediscovered traditions has been a strong guiding hand to my elbow of interest in Andalusia’s great grape. This 500mls of profound joy maybe represents the best of his efforts? This saca or “withdrawal” is from an old solera owned by Delgado Zuleta. The back label says it’s from just one barrel or bota, bottled without filtration or en rama in accordance with the phases of the moon. Well, the moon tide has bought some spectacularly rich flavours. Marine breezes, bitters and chamomile cut into very ripe yellow stone fruit and sweet dry hay. Explosive through the mid palate, like chewing the very pith of summer. A contrast of fresh and very fine mineral acidity sweeps in and makes another sip inevitable. Nowhere else makes stuff like this. Andalusia here I come.

15% alcohol. Cork. $55.

96 points.

2000 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

I remember the year 2000 was a good one for the variety that does so well in the Yarra Valley. This bottle was a bit of a gamble at auction. Who knows where it’s been slumbering through many hot summers? Add the lottery of cork and the chances of a duff bottle increase to the point of not risking a huge bid. It was enough to score what turned out to be a tiring but still very lovely bottle. Loads of reliable Cabernet leaf, cedar and tobacco with plenty of cassis and red fruit plumping up the cushion of those fine Yarra Cabernet tannins. A pleasing roundness and resolution with age. A sort of savoury sweetness, if that makes sense? Maybe the flavours are very different but Yarra Valley Cabernet can produce a lingering sensation of timelessness just like some Bordeaux does, at a fraction of the price.

13.% alcohol. Cork. $30 at auction.

93 points.

2019 Giovanni Rosso Esther Canale Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo

I do get to drink incredibly well sometimes thanks to friends’ extreme generosity. I did at first think, so, you’ve only opened a Langhe Rosso while I’ve dug a 2010 Boschis Via Nuova out for you. Teach me to be so unkind. The Boschis Barolo was malty, muddy and horribly oxidised, not the first 2010 to be disappointing. To be honest, I did have a vague memory of Giovanni Rosso making a Langhe from a cru vineyard and it being a bit special, and not cheap. Turns out this comes from a cherished Rosso family plot in Vigna Rionda no less. And what a fine glass of wine it was. So finely wrought. All the best possible sweet red cherries dusted in perfumed sweet spices. A lift of flowers to fill out the edges. The essence of summer fruit is backed up by a savoury nut paste. In shape, sort of like Grand Cru Burg, inasmuch as there’s enormous flavour that just floats on fine tannin of great finesse that dissipates on a long vapour trail of gentle but persistent acidity. Best possible way to forget a dodgy bottle of Barolo.

14% alcohol. Cork. $275 RRP, eek.

96 points.

2015 Domaine Grand Nicolet Côtes du Rhône

Some but certainly not all 2015 CdRs have had a fresh and deeply fruity edge that’s hung on really well with age. Mostly Grenache and Syrah with bits of Carignan and Cinsault it seems, this was a direct import from Nick’s Wine Merchants in Melbourne. For those of us with long memories of local wine retailers from the 1990s, Nick’s was famous for the line, “Nick’s nose knows” and the use of a weird tasting word of their own, “joosy”. They also did well riding the wave of enthusiasm for huge, high alcohol Australian wine. This still looks fresh and alarmingly balanced for a Nick’s offering. Sour cherry, kirsch and a sooty depth that sort of reminds me of the best of Priorat. Pure, fresh and bound by good skin tannin tied to just right acidity. Hanging on well, like Nick’s now solely on line business. Those old shops are much missed for easy access to some good imports. Notice Nick’s are still importing Nicolet. Do wonder if the 2021 is just as “joosy”?

14% alcohol. Cork. $15 a while ago, bargain.

92 points.