Month: September 2024

2023 Cantina Gries Bolzano Lagrein Alto Adige

The train from Munich to the Veneto passes through the beautiful Alto Adige or Südtirol as Italy’s language complications would have it. There’s a lot of vineyards around Bolzano and the misty mountains, maybe the train passed by the source of this bright spark to the appetite. Lagrein seems to make wine with healthy rich extract without being weighed down by alcohol or tannin. Tart and mouth watering. Sour cherry, dry kirsch and mountain crisp to finish but still a generosity of fruit. A good bite of just ripe skin tannin. There seems to be some really well organised cooperatives up in the Alto Adige. Good to see growers banding together to make something more than the sum of its parts. Together we’re better, even it involves some spirited discussion, it’s Italy after all.

13% alcohol. Diam again. €13.

92 points.

2023 I Feudi di Romans Etichetta Bianca Friulano and Cabernet Franc Isonzo del Friuli

Wine prices in Italy are often half of those imported in Australia, thanks WET. Travelling for a few weeks does make some sort of budget necessary despite the extreme temptation of great bottles for less. Happily there are some good things under €10 a bottle to try. Both these bottles made by Azienda Agricola Lorenzon were under €8 from a local Trieste supermarket not far from the DOC of Isonzo itself. The Friulano has the typically restrained fruit of Italian whites but shows a rich savoury quality of dried herb, subtle yellow fruit and a twist of amaro, very Italiano, almond and soft but lingering acidity. Gets the appetite whetted indeed. The Cabernet Franc like other Friuli versions takes the wine memory to the Loire. This time the sort of lighter weight, fresh and crunchy version. Sparkle of red raspberry, cherry and leaf. A gustatory, nice word, twang of refreshing acidity brushed with a little gentle tannin. Really not the most concentrated fruit as it got a bit washed out by day three but delicious on day one. Neither white or red wine making showing more ambition than the fruit quality but just so and still sensitive to the need of a good mouthful to help all that incredible Italian food go down.

Both 12.5% alcohol. Both Diam, so far ten bottles and only one natural cork. €7.80 both.

Both 89 or 90 if food’s involved.

2022 Dorigo Cabernet Franc Friuli Colli Orientali

Spell check turned Dorigo into Dorito, maybe not a recommended food match. I wondered if this producer is related to one of the best Australian left backs who unfortunately played for both Chelsea and England. Secular things aside, it’s interesting that Cab Franc and Merlot are not recent international arrivals in Friuli. Very unsubstantiated sources suggest they either arrived pre phylloxera with pilgrims wandering back from France or were established by Napoleon which may be at odds with his supposed love of Burgundies. Nonetheless the two most offered reds around here in Trieste seem to be these Bordelaise upstarts, with Refosco and Schioppettino making the odd appearance. So, a random Franc from the supermarket shelf and a good result. Easily fooled into thinking this a good Loire version with just so Franc flavours of dark raspberry and sweet leafiness. Good sinewy tannins are carried by ripe acidity. Just medium bodied and not trying too hard. Good value from the shelves of Trieste’s Coop supermarket. Their deli section is impressive too.

13% alcohol. Diam. €14.

91 points.

2023 Livio Felluga Sharis Bianco Venezia Giulia

A long time favourite of Italian white wine, Livio Felluga’s bottles have always seemed beautifully made, just the right amount of extraction, just rich enough, clean through the middle and a satisfying minerally end. Finding yourself in the so elegant town of Trieste close to the source, this seems a good way to benchmark other adventures into the local white supply. There’s a lot of interesting indigenous varieties and some uncompromising skin soaking ways. This is no disappointment, opens clean and fresh with a slightly green, nettle thing. Then there’s pear, citrus and a fresh almond swell leading to a neat mouth watering ending. Maybe you can judge a producer by how good is their cheapest bottle? This looks like your money won’t be wasted on a special bottle.

13% alcohol. Nomacorc. €15 in Italy.

92 pleasing points.