It’s been over thirty years since my first taste of a good wine from Italy, a Chianti I think from the great vintage of 1985. It was when proper Bordeaux became just about unaffordable for the eclectic palates who bought their wine from the much missed Richmond Hill Cellars in Melbourne. Thanks to that great shop, Italy fast became a source of well priced deliciously savoury wine. Those 1985 Tuscans did hit the spot, we could almost afford Sassicaia then. Many visits to the old boot later and still yet to set foot in Sicily. No better time really as Etna has tickled the radar in recent years, sometimes I’m not entirely sure why all the fuss but occasionally the odd bottle has definitely suggested a place like no other. There’s no better way to get there than the slow train from the coast north of Catania to Passopisciaro where the action is, or isn’t as John Coooper Clarke would say. Lots of investment in wine production, not a lot happening on the streets. A car would have made things a lot easier finding food, not to say driving would be a bit unnerving among the local Fangios. Careful google map planning, that never goes wrong does it, meant a nice hike through the vineyards to I Custodi.
It looked a healthy vintage. Happy vines and clean bunches. The winery is obviously a large investment in time and money but happily it looks more practical than architecturally extravagant. It must be close to self sufficient in energy use too and even incorporates an updated version of the old Arabic evaporation cooling system via the chimney on the right. It works well to suck cool air through the cellar below.
Thanks to the simpatico Maurizio, a sommelier of great knowledge and experience in the wine business, we got a great tour of vineyard and winery.
There’s a new plot of Nerello Cappuccio next to the winery. I Custodi are keen on the colour, freshness and structure it can add but not so much perhaps on its fickle nature. The single chestnut stake for each vine is the labour intensive way it’s been traditionally done. A trudge through the older Mascalese vineyard was like walking on a fine black sand and pebble beach of such softness, its black dust got through shoes and socks to leave sweaty feet blackened. Remarkably there’s some centenarian ancient vines which have survived phylloxera, gnarled and beautiful. Enough of the outside, inside to taste.
Ten bottles all in row, what a great sight. It was just about every example of their production. The whites in particular were extremely good. From vineyards on the eastern slopes of the volcano which produce finer Carricante perhaps? Pressed in whole bunches and stainless steel fermented and matured, there’s a purity and freshness but aroma and weight too. The real stars of the tasting were the two Ante and the Imbris. All three had that extra depth of aroma and richness, acacia or wattle as we smell in Australia, flower honey, nuts and white chocolate. Profound. The sort of thing found in great White Burgundy maybe? But cut with a breeze of indelible ashy acidity. The Imbris, I think, comes from a the prized slopes around Milo as it’s allowed superiore. From the rains the name suggests. The reds include about 20% stalks and 20% Cappuccio and a bit of older larger oak finishing. Nicely balanced between upright stainless only versions and the lift and nuttiness of more traditional ways. Except of course the Cappuccio, in purezza, as the Italians say which was deliciously bright, tense and reminded Maurizio of a good Morgon, well said. Maybe you can taste igneous rocks in a glass?
We ambled our way back to the village in warm sun thinking we knew a lot more about Etna. Big thanks to mates in the business in Melbourne for organising a such a treat.
Cognitive Bottle Therapy 