Suppose you could say it’s a pilgrimage for the lover of El Triangulo, the perfect geometry of Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barremeda. Thanks again to the undertheflor blog which has been a great reference in finding the good stuff. Just wish it was more up to date. And speaking of time passing, it’s obvious that things don’t change too much as the clock ticks in the Taberna der Guerrita. The same groups of old mates still prop the bar with a copa or caña of cold beer, families come in up to three generations to drink and eat a little, the kids sitting amongst the feet on the bar step.
But there’s an incredible choice of Sherry drinks. The son of the business, Armando Guerra, has a job with the progressive Barbadillo dealing with their special bottlings and new projects. He’s a passionate advocate for the new focus on quality around the old triangle but in no way has forgotten what makes this bar tick. There’s a house Manzanilla en rama straight from the barrel for €1.50 and to eat there’s great local ingredients, seasonal and well cooked, no cheffy flourishes. Should you have some carefully saved cash to splurge on a special bottle, there’s a huge list right up to a Selosse fizz, well, it’s all about the yeast, no? To keep it interesting, there’s an ever changing biological de El Marco by the glass too. Happily, the place is a good fifteen minute walk from downtown Sanlúcar. Too far for the idle tourist but not the Sherry freak or the locals who know a great pub.
There’s always kind service with a smile or a crack if your Español is up to it.
Good things to eat, ready to plate and a short list of calientes.
About nine o’clock, the best tortilla in the world makes its appearance. Keep a beady eye on that bar.
Quietly convivial, raucous and fun sometimes, to find a table or a place at the bar, sip great wine and eat what’s local and fresh and time seems to melt. If hospitality is meant to come from deep pride in a job well done and satisfaction at seeing customers feel like friends, then this bar is worth your time. Spend some time and watch the happy ebb and flow. A great, great bar.
100 points.
Cognitive Bottle Therapy 