2020 Prinz Hallgartener Jungfer Rheingau Riesling Trocken GG

The only bit of Germany’s vineyards I’ve explored is the very pretty riverside Rheingau. Happily there’s lots of dry Rieslings to be tried from what seems to be a lot of quality minded producers. It’s also very easy to explore by train from sky scraping towered and bankered Frankfurt. German wine labelling is still not entirely clear in my old brain but the back label says VDP Grosse Lage which I think means the vineyard is defined as being top of the quality pyramid under wine law and can be further loosely defined as Grosses Gerwachs meaning dry wine from such Grand Cru sites. Should be good then. Perfumes of white peach and citrus with a dab of vanilla bean. It’s all a bit reserved and controlled by that word…mineral..freshness and some sweet green herbiness. Really powerful as it glides on fruit sweetness and a glycerol slide of tightly bound mouth watering acidity and a touch of alcohol warmth. One of those Rieslings that’s either got a touch of fruit sugar or the fruits so dense it seems sweet, beyond me and no bad thing. Just balancing itself adroitly. Opened at the same time as a really good Eden Valley local which was rich in developed flavour with a broad burst of wide acidity. So different to the linear brightness of this Jungfer tingle, so bound into the whole. There’s some Rolls Royce power in this GG top of the range. Quite different to the Toyota reliability of a good Eden Valley to stretch a dubious metaphor.

13% alcohol, it’s ripe. Cork lottery. Thanks to a generous dinner companion.

96 points.

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cognitivebottletherapy

Everyday events struggle to share space with wine thoughts in an ever shrinking brain.

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