cognitivebottletherapy

2018 Domaine du Pélican Arbois Savagnin Ouillé

Having regained an enthusiasm for a nice glass of wine, it seems some upmarket bottles are getting opened before anything else happens to curb the fun. An adventure too. My first whole bottle of Savagnin from the Jura. The virtually unpronounceable Ouillé means the barrels are topped up to stop oxidation. From a famous Volnay domaine making wine and waves in the Jura too, what luxury. Despite the topping up, there’s a hint of flor aldehyde maybe? Green apple, honey and chamomile, marzipan and a lick of butterscotch. As rich and complex as a recent unfortified Palomino from Sanlucar, such is the alcohol warmth and weight. Likewise there’s indelibly ripe acidity to pick up the load and float the flavours down in great contrast. Teetering balance that doesn’t wobble. A svelte Burgundian touch of caramel oak to season. Certainly makes me wonder how an example from a cooler year would compare. Could be at least in the realm of reality compared to current white Burgundy prices.

14.5% alcohol. Diam. RRP around $90.

94 points.

2021 Bandesh Time to Fly Shiraz

It’s worth reading articles by Max Allen in the AFR and Anna Bailey in the Guardian where Farhad Bandesh’s arduous journey from Kurdish Iran to making wine in Australia gets some sympathetic coverage. How he survived about eight years detention as a refugee on the hell of Manus Island and still smiles when talking about Australian wine and its supportive people is extraordinary. He had a stall at a local farmers’ market one cold damp Saturday recently. It was a privilege to buy a couple of bottles and reflect on how we take such free choices for granted. Well, not only a tough, lovely human, Farhad can make very good wine too. Quite rich and ripe for a Yarra Valley Shiraz. Plenty of summer pudding berries and custard. Spice and a clean finish of intermingled fine acidity and tannin. Even when it’s pretty ripe, the Yarra Valley seems to imbue its gentle fresh touch. Just a delicious Shiraz. I also bought a 2022 Time to Fly Shiraz made from the same Grampians vineyard as Rory Lane from The Story sources his fruit, picked at the same time. Every bit as deeply red fruited and entrancingly peppery as you’d want. Didn’t take a note but happy to buy another.

14% alcohol. Diam. $35 and worth every cent.

93 points but so much more than just points. Survive and thrive.

Farhad’s wines and spirits are available on line at

bandeshwineandspirits.com

2016 Bodegas Cota 45 UBE de Ubérrima Las Vegas El Carrascal

Palomino from the Las Vegas vineyard in the pago of Carrascal de Sanlucar. Unfortified but aged a little under flor. Not just simple Palomino but a blend it seems of three different Palominos. Perhaps individual varieties rather than clones? The intricacies of the Sherry triangle vineyards are something fairly new to me, such is the dominance of brand and naming by style, Fino, Amontillado etc. Must say I’m really looking forward to visiting later in the year and seeking out the old is new expressions of what’s a special bit of grape growing country. If this bottle is any indication, treats are in store. This opens like a good Manzanilla without the weight of fortification or the old dank oak and sulphide which can mar Sherry a little for me. As it breathes in some air, it just gets better and then a bit more. Loads of saline, savoury flor challenge, beautifully measured by huge florals, yes, chamomile of course, browning sweet apple, blossom honey and yellow peach. Background of sweet drying meadow grass. All pith and fine extract. Incredible depth all floated on a caress of startling acidity and the finest grape skin chew. The best of flor and fruit, dry and confronting but pure and delicious. Nothing else like it, and therein lies the fascination. So lucky to score this at auction. Not sure what I expected but a very happy surprise.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. Current vintage is about $70aud in Spain. Better start saving.

96 points.

2020 Soumah Cabernet Merlot

Reading the label, Soumah is a geographical reference, South of Maroondah, as in the highway. The road to good Cabernet for us lovers of the Yarra Valley’s star variety. Cool mint, red currant and cassis, cedar and tobacco, tweaked with sweet herb and gravel. Pleasing cut of fine tannin and refreshing acidity. Many flavours set against a watercoloured wash of gentle ending. Understated but not diminished in expression. Nice round feel, it sort of seems comfortable, if not incredibly concentrated. On the basis of about five or so bottles, Soumah seem to like restraint and an agreeable savoury invitation more than grabbing your lapels. Civilised, nice.

Happy days, the post Covid energy fog is clearing and stumbling to describe a nice drink seems to be compulsive again. Instead of just sitting there and enjoying the warming effect.

13.5% alcohol. Screw Cap. $28 RRP

91 points maybe 92.

2019 Bodega Badiola Laderas Rioja

The slow and at times discombobulating hold of the Covid virus has certainly whacked the already less than impressive energy levels and made the last couple of months at times seem like a drizzly English weekend. Eventually the sun comes out again as the virus loosens its hold and a bottle comes along that just brings a smile. If the 2018 of this was very good, then this is a paragon of what good Rioja Tempranillo can do if there’s not too mucking about in the winery. Spank me, it’s fresh. Just right ripeness, carefully extracted and delicious. Bright red fruits, strawberries and cherries with a swirl of healthy dirt. Makes the mouth happy with sparkling acidity and a well sharpened blade of fine tannin. Probably has the weight to gain with age but such a cheer up as of now. Seize the day and a bottle. This maker is consistently very good.

14% alcohol, perhaps can’t read my writing. Not that it matters if the balance is there. Diam. $26.60 in a Murphy’s six.

92 or 93 points.

2020 Famille Bougrier Gamay Noir

Can’t resist a glittering gold medal sticker, particularly on a cheap Dan’s import. Must confess to being uninspired by the lack of new things on the shelves to raise enough enthusiasm for a six bottle discount buy this month. Cabernet Franc seems more plentiful along the Loire but there’s been quite a few Gamays I’ve enjoyed. From the Côtes du Forez, near the river’s origin, all the way to Anjou it’s been a maybe crisper, less lush alternative to the Beaujolais versions. Bit cheaper too. There’s no real clue as to where this was grown but there’s quite a bit of Gamay to the east of Tours where the maker’s based. In the glass and it’s very clean, whole berry bright red fruited. Crisp with a snap of mouth wetting acidity and a dab of skin tannin. The fruit’s just a brush of summer berries nicely perched thereon. As Spandau Ballet would, Gold, or errr, bronze.

12% alcohol. Screw cap. $14

88 points and very nice to drink.

A just opened 2021 version is as fresh and crisp and again just enough sweet summer berry to keep up. Savoury too. Simple but nice balance.

89 points.

2021 Domaine ‘Alzipratu Fiumeseccu Corse Calvi AOP

Possibly the first ever wine from Corsica for me, at least as far as I remember. Seems from reading about the island, it has a fierce sense of independence, so a blend of Rhone and Tuscan grapes maybe shows they’re not wholly French or Italian but go as they please. Thanks to the Jancis’ wine grape bible for translating, this is a blend of Niellucciu, local for Sangiovese, Sciacarellu aka Mammolo, Grenache and Syrah. Very tasty mix up it is too. Opens with loads of crushed rock smells, tart fresh red cherries and woody herbs like sage. Time in the glass turns the reductive rocky element into a not unattractive bitter herb infusion, some sweet new leather and a good focused concentration of dried red fruits. Hardly surprising it seems like an Italian set of flavours but on holiday with those dried woody herbs of Southern France. All wrapped up in a mouth watering crunch of fine rocky tannin and neat acidity. What a lovely diversion on the wine road.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. $40 ish.

93 points.

2012 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Dry Riesling

From Alsace to the Clare Valley is a long way but the Riesling connection keeps my glass half full. One of my favourite local wine shops has the clever workers stylish in T shirts telling me it’s the summer of Riesling. My attempts to be so chic in a free one have been answered only by suggestions I’d need to buy a few more bottles to get a complimentary shirt. This particular bottle from the cellar makes me wish I’d bought a lot more 2012 Lodge Hill than just one. Opened with a bit of asafoetida like sulphur reduction which blows away rapidly to let the intense and typical aroma and flavour of Clare lime to power on through. Lime in its many forms too, leaf, skin oil, juice and when it’s been cut and put flesh side down to caramelise in a pan. Loads of sweet fruit but no sugar, it does say dry on the front label, a tropical sort of lime richness that’s balanced beautifully by natural and mouthwatering acidity, all bedded on a twist of tonic water tang. Not the full orchestra of the Schaal Riesling but so true and clear in pitch. Ageing superbly, unlike some around here.

12.5% alcohol. Screw cap. $20 on release, stupidly cheap.

94 points.

2019 Julien Schaal Rangen Volcanique Riesling

A recent 2018 Schoenenbourg Gypse from this maker was so good, a modest bid for a Rangan was essential. After a casual look at what’s around, it’s apparent good Grand Cru Alsace is in the rare treat price category. Happy to say this did not disappoint and made it very clear there’s great growing and winemaking here. Volume and clarity. Generosity and elegance. A range of fine, complex favours. Something sort of petrol and mineral, green mango, white peach and very ripe yellow apples. Great flavours arranged neatly on a strict chessboard of skin phenolics and an indelible caress of unbreakable granite acidity that draw it all out into the distance. Goodness, there’s more, freshly ground sweet spices, floral honey and a twist of quinine bitterness to calm. You could say I like this very much.

13.5% alcohol and no undue warmth. Diam. $59 and in terms of prices for great white wine, a bargain.

96 points.

2020 Daniel Bouland Morgon Corselette

Nothing better than gathering across the table to share and chat, unless a Beaujolais smitten good friend brings something to jog memories of great bottles from M. Bouland, then it’s shut up, this is special. No notes, having too much fun but in case you fancy one of the best 2020 Crus so far drunk, here’s a happy memory. Clean, pure red fruits just over ripening into something sweet and darker, rich and concentrated. Perfect summer berries. Sweet earth and rocky complications. The carriage of granite acidity and tannins, so fine you’ll need a microscope to see them separately, cleans up and then there’s just perfume and length for a long, long time. Very fine indeed. Beautifully made. Kept me quiet for a while, probably why D brought it along.

13.5% alcohol. Cork or Diam, forgot. Thanks for sharing.

95 points.