Category: Carricante

One last Etna Bianco bought in Sicily and not exactly chosen by any great knowledge about the producer but because the label has a picture of a favourite train. At first glance it seems the maker was founded by a wealthy and noble entrepreneur from Vicenza who put his money where his palate told him, a winery just south of Palermo. Their production seems to focus on the usual Sicilian varieties from around the hills south of that chaotic city. I was a bit surprised to read on the back label that this bottle was in fact made for them by Cantine Valenti who were also responsible for the Deco supermarket bottle just posted, at about half the price. Just like the Enkelados bottling, this has the same deeper colour and extraction without adding weight. The same build of flavour and cut of Etna acidity but certainly a notch or two up in the fruit quality. Poised yellow fruits and flowers with a bit of hazel nut and white chocolate. Open over three days, there was again a weird echo of white Burgundy, with a very different texture of course, that fine pumice like acidity that’s got me hooked. A rich version but still balanced and no wobbles. Wasn’t expecting Etna Bianco to be my favourite Sicilian drink but it is now. Fresh pomegranate juice is pretty good morning option though. Enough antioxidants to clean up all that indulgence.

13% alcohol. Diam. €18.

94 points.

An Etna Bianco from one of those easy to navigate large Italian supermarkets on the edge of town which always seem to have great deli counters and a value wine selection. And another mystery label. This wasn’t exactly a huge risk at €8. It seems hard to find anything less than delicious in terms of Etna Bianco these days, maybe even at this price point? OK, perhaps not the fine flavours and highlights of the best but still rich, clean yellow fruit flavours with a blur of herby green. Nonetheless, there’s still that trademark pull of refreshing pumice like acidity and vapour trail of ash. Wouldn’t it be good to find something like this on the shelves of Dan’s for less than $15. Oh well, in ten days or so I’ll have the chance to find out again. Sicily’s very good for adding padding around the middle. Thanks to the incredible Giacomo Serpotta, this putto and I share the happy discomfort.

13.5% alcohol. Diam. Amazing, in maybe sixty bottles opened in Italy in two months, only three natural corks. €8.

91 points.

There’s a train that winds its slow way up the volcano from near Catania to the wine nut’s destination of Passopisciaro nestling under its northern slope. So rich is the volcanic soil the line was originally built to carry the mountain’s products down to the coast. Now it carries school kids and wine hunters both back and forth. It’s an amazing contrast to go from the dry limestone of the baroque south east of Sicily to the green jungle of Etna’s sea facing rise. Due east from the train’s starting terminus at Riposto is the village of Milo at the refreshing altitude of about 800 metres above sea level. It’s where the rich from Catania would spend their summers and where Carricante finds a place to happily ripen. So much so Italian wine law says you can add Superiore to Etna Bianco. Don’t think this producer could be bothered. They did bother to break from vintage work to sell two thirsty travellers a couple of bottles when all in Passopisciaro was shuttered and closed. Would have been a terrible prospect, an evening looking at Etna and no wine. There’s a fine elegance, for want of a better word, to good Etna Bianco. Rich citrus, mint and a hint of white chocolate in floral honey all carried on a vapour trail of the most mouthwatering and pumice fine acidity. Just got more interesting as its reserve melted. On repeat, it always tastes better close to the vines.

13.5% alcohol. Diam. Seems like I got a bargain as this and a bottle of their Arcuria Rosso were €32 for both. Maybe got a discount for looking so desperate.

94 points.