2016 Vigneti Boveri Giacomo Freisa La Cappelletta Colli Tortonesi

Another label for the train spotter boy in every old man wine lover I reckon. Shame I managed to get the photo out of focus as it’s one thing this wine doesn’t lack. A string of Italian names that probably mean little to most except the venerable Piemonte hound looking for value. This got a great review on The Wine Front, that most entertaining of sites. An essential resource when browsing the auction site. A few years in bottle have done nothing to interfere with the cheerful bite and depth of great grapes here. Loads of just picked dark cherries and that amazing rockiness that comes in layer after layer. Touches of woody herb and black olives. Great measures of brilliant fruit and contrasting geological flavour, assuming it’s possible to taste such things. Not hard to see Freisa’s part in parenting Nebbiolo. Shame it was my only bottle. In Piemontese terms of value these days, a bargain.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. $55 RRP.

95 points, it’s that good.

2018 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Langhe Freisa

It seems Freisa is the mum or dad of their much more famous child Nebbiolo. Obscurity makes it a lot cheaper, along with some keen direct import pricing from those Boccaccio Barolo boys. Intricate smells and flavours of cherry, Piemonte dirt, almond, liquorice and blood orange. In no way sweet, more typically Langhe tart and essential with a twist of bitter herbs. Tannins are fine but clinging like sediment. Perhaps not the drive or carry of its offspring but so good with a bowl of rugged winter pasta to demolish. Worth an uncouth but extremely complimentary burp.

14.5% alcohol. Diam. I think $39.99 on the shelf but Boccaccio website says $49.99.

92 points.