Category: Lagrein

2023 Cantina Gries Bolzano Lagrein Alto Adige

The train from Munich to the Veneto passes through the beautiful Alto Adige or Südtirol as Italy’s language complications would have it. There’s a lot of vineyards around Bolzano and the misty mountains, maybe the train passed by the source of this bright spark to the appetite. Lagrein seems to make wine with healthy rich extract without being weighed down by alcohol or tannin. Tart and mouth watering. Sour cherry, dry kirsch and mountain crisp to finish but still a generosity of fruit. A good bite of just ripe skin tannin. There seems to be some really well organised cooperatives up in the Alto Adige. Good to see growers banding together to make something more than the sum of its parts. Together we’re better, even it involves some spirited discussion, it’s Italy after all.

13% alcohol. Diam again. €13.

92 points.

2021 Mount Avoca Estate Lagrein

A drive to the Victorian version of the Pyrenees happily included a stop at a warm and welcoming cellar door. The hills aren’t quiet the size of those in Europe but in mid winter they may be as cold. The organic vineyards look well tended by some shivering sheep who hadn’t read the weather advice for farmers or viticulturists considering winter pruning. There’s a good range of wines to taste by a wood fire. Solid, clean and not trying too hard, letting the vineyard speak. This appealed for its rich sour cherry fruit, chocolate tannin and ripe acidity. Opening the bottle at home, there’s much more of that central Victorian mint and eucalyptus lift apparent and a good sappy tang. It always surprises how much tasting at a cellar door can differ from the relative objectivity of home. Nonetheless some lovely fruit here and perhaps an Italian mountain variety that doesn’t mind those rugged gum tree covered hills. Seems it’s the local cockatoos’ favourite grape too.

If you’re travelling in a Pyrenees way, an enthusiastic recommendation for the Avoca Hotel. Great food and a spectacular wine list. Wish there were more country pubs as good.

13% alcohol. Screw cap. $30 at the cellar door.

92 points.