Category: Moristel

2023 Bodegas Pirineos 3404 Tinto Merlot Garnacha Moristel

From the DO or should it be DOP of Somontano up in foothills of the Pyrenees comes this odd blend. The back label says 3404 refers to the altitude of the mountain El Aneto overlooking the sunny Somontano vineyards. And a bit of cooler air has done this no harm. Lots but not too much extraction of delicious plum, cherry pip and raspberry fruit, fresh and full of juice. Just that extra length and intensity of flavour that pushes above the basic Spanish joven examples. This has a rich purple plum thing which those who know the left bank of Bordeaux business say is perhaps typical of Merlot? Probably not the sort of posh tannin poise though? Good fresh and natural feeling acidity on a chew of slate like skin tannin keeps things trim and taut. Pirineos’ Moristel has often been a tasty off the beaten path treat. This too is a diversion worth following. More interest for me than a lot those bottles labelled Crianza or Reserva.

14% alcohol. Diam, nearly ubiquitous in Spain now it seems. About €5, great value.

92 points.

2021 Bodegas Pirineos Principio Moristel Somontano DOP

More Spaniards in the glass and a Moristel revisit from a new vintage. From up in the Pyrenees foothills near the lovely town of Huesca. One of those obscure grapes that seems to produce seriously drinkable wine. Perhaps richer and riper than the 2019. Crunchy red fruit, something darker and earthier underneath. Medium body, purple in its freshness. Lots of furry skin tannin. Despite leaving the bottle to rest for a few months, it still felt clenched in the middle. To such an extent that the last third of the bottle was at its most delicious after being sloshed around in the car on a winding two hour drive. Lots of less robust wines would have collapsed into oxidation. This just bounced back to be at its best. Another example of Barbadillo, one of Spain’s larger producers, just getting better and better.

12.5% alcohol but seems warmer hearted. Diam? $31 RRP.

92 points.

2019 Bodegas Pirineos Principio Moristel Somontana DOP

Moristel seems a rare one, indigenous and limited to Catalonia and a tiny bit of Aragon. It’s also becoming popular around here. Well, this is the second bottle of Moristel reviewed, coming from the cool foothills of the Pyrenees, the other from the dry hot plateau around Catalyud. This one shows it’s cooler abode in pristine hedgerow berries and brambles as England summers would make, cherries and some sweet earth. Sparkling tart but ripe acidity and a brush of sweet grape skin tannin. Sort of cru Beaujolais from a fresh cool year, maybe a comparison? Just got better over two days, impeccable balance and making, just the essence of grape, summer in a bottle. The label also carries the Barbadillo brand. For such a large enterprise, they’re increasingly producing wine of place and heritage, all the way from Jerez to the mountains now. Moristel might be difficult to find but worth the effort, sigh.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. $30 RRP.

93 points.

2017 Bodegas Langa π or 3.1415 Concejon or Moristel

Moristel seems fairly local to Aragón and around. Only three and a bit hectares of it at Bodegas Langa in Calatayud, hence the mathematically symbolic name. Shows it’s from the region with a dark, dark colour and a lot of power. Sadly there’s a bit too much oak on opening and perhaps not the best seasoned with some dreaded coconut top note. Second day the fruit comes forth and nearly first, inasmuch as intense tiny berries muscle the wood aside. Lovely blueberry and blackcurranty headed toward plums. Some earthy macho Spanish landscape. Does seem a little more rounded and less butch than local Aragón Garnacha with a tighter coil of acid and softer tannin. You can still see the fruit for the wood just about thankfully. Would be better without being so lumbered though.

14.50% alcohol. Cork. 12 euros.

92 points.