2021 Bodegas Pirineos Principio Moristel Somontano DOP

More Spaniards in the glass and a Moristel revisit from a new vintage. From up in the Pyrenees foothills near the lovely town of Huesca. One of those obscure grapes that seems to produce seriously drinkable wine. Perhaps richer and riper than the 2019. Crunchy red fruit, something darker and earthier underneath. Medium body, purple in its freshness. Lots of furry skin tannin. Despite leaving the bottle to rest for a few months, it still felt clenched in the middle. To such an extent that the last third of the bottle was at its most delicious after being sloshed around in the car on a winding two hour drive. Lots of less robust wines would have collapsed into oxidation. This just bounced back to be at its best. Another example of Barbadillo, one of Spain’s larger producers, just getting better and better.

12.5% alcohol but seems warmer hearted. Diam? $31 RRP.

92 points.

2017 Celler Lagravera Onra

From Alfarràs, a village to the north of Lleida, which reminds me of a favourite film of recent years set in the village of Alcarràs, not so far away up on the Catalan plateau. It seems it’s a blend of Garnacha Tinta and Cabernet Sauvignon which may mean it’s outside the rules for the Costers del Segre DOP or the producer doesn’t seek certification? It is certified biodynamic, clean, bottle evolved and delicious. Looks like Garnacha or Garnatxa as the Catalans would probably insist. Lots of bright red fruit, peanuts, a touch of floral spicing and a just mid weight texture of chalky tannin and melting acidity. Would have never thought Cabernet if google hadn’t suggested it’s in there. Great Garnacha country. If you travel north west, there’s the Campo de Borja. South west there’s Priorat and the rest. Alcarràs the film deals with the changes, often economically enforced, in the farming communities around Lleida. Turning an old quarry area into a biodynamic vineyard seems a change for the better.

13.5% alcohol. Diam. $30. A Langtons direct import which means a Dan Murphy import too.

93 points.

2019 Telmo Rodríguez LG Valbuxan Tinto Lexitimo Valdorreas DO

Another wine from Spain that happily revives Covid damaged senses. A perfect Spanish wine geek’s bottle inasmuch as the grape and the place take a bit unpicking. In short Lugar de Valbuxan seems to be an ancient cellar and vineyard where lots of time and money have been invested. The Mencia and bits of other old local varieties like Brancellao, Sousón, Merenzao and Garnacha Tintorera are from around a village maybe called O Bolo? Lexitimo means something like authentic in Gallego. And really, this is the real thing, Mencia that tastes like nothing else, except it always brings to mind the best of the Northern Rhone, but don’t mind me. Flowers, sort of violet, dying fire embers, raspberries and complications of all sorts of red fruits. Lots of that indescribable rocky mineral thing. Exquisitely ripe and poised. Head full of fruit and perfume. Hangs around on the softest cushion of acid caress and perfect skin tannin. Medium of body and fine. This is the mid level village vineyard blend in the maker’s Valdeorras range. How good must the expensive single vineyard versions be? Spain does ballet as well as foot thumping flamenco.

13% alcohol. Cork. $75.

95 points

2022 Bodegas Luis Pérez El Muelle de Olaso Palomino de Jerez

After a long break in posts and a similar amount of time fretting about a damaged sense of smell thanks to another unhappy encounter with that pandemic virus, this rattled the senses beautifully. After a happy couple of weeks in Andalucia including sea moist walks along the Sanlucar river, opening this brought back those salty estuary smells. So good as it gained air, deep yellow fruit and chamomile, saline flickers from a brush with flor, freshened with a squeeze of citrus. Muesli and cereals. Richness and volume cut into shape by firm, reviving acidity. Safe to say El Marco de Jerez is without comparison in the wine world. So good to see it gaining confidence and reborn pride in its special soil, grape and place on the edge of a big ocean. The label proudly references soil and place. Three great wine towns and a delicious glass for not much.

13.5% alcohol. Cork. €12. $45 or so in Australia but worth it.

93 points.

2018 S C Pannell Old McDonald McLaren Vale Grenache

Sometimes a bottle of wine is just so good it breaks the inertia of not posting. Over four days this just got better. Probably the most poised and perfumed, pristinely fruited Australian Grenache I’ve been lucky enough to drink. 76 year old dry grown bush vines from Blewitt Springs. Gary Walsh’s Winefront review compares this to Barbaresco, perhaps in terms of the tannin and acid ripeness you find in the right grapes grown in the right place? He and S C Pannell should know. Full keyboard of ripeness, from top notes of floral perfume, mid range of succulent berries and bass of nut paste and savoury spice. No white noise, just precise gentle power. I really like Gary’s description of the finish as a landslide of shale and forest berries. As comfortable as Nebbiolo is in Barbaresco, Grenache is just as happy in Blewitt Springs. Took four days to show how great. Like great Nebbiolo the highish alcohol doesn’t impede. Wish I had another bottle.

14.5% alcohol. Screw Cap. $60 RRP but mine was $45 from auction. Think I’ll try and find more before it gets too fashionable?

96 points.

Scott Wasley Selections Albero Manzanilla en rama Saca 3 2022

I thought I had posted this in August before setting off to Spain. WordPress says otherwise. So glad to visit Sherry land again. Hospitable bars, great snacks and the best value wine by the glass. If you show a bit of interest in place, grape and what slumbers in those vast rows of ancient black barrels, the bodegas will reward you with great tastings.

For over twenty years now The Spanish Acquisition have been importing some of the Sherry Triangle’s best. In the last few years there’s been a noticeable freshening in flavours and interest in these challenging savoury drinks. The amount of detail in Scott’s passionate explanation of rediscovered traditions has been a strong guiding hand to my elbow of interest in Andalusia’s great grape. This 500mls of profound joy maybe represents the best of his efforts? This saca or “withdrawal” is from an old solera owned by Delgado Zuleta. The back label says it’s from just one barrel or bota, bottled without filtration or en rama in accordance with the phases of the moon. Well, the moon tide has bought some spectacularly rich flavours. Marine breezes, bitters and chamomile cut into very ripe yellow stone fruit and sweet dry hay. Explosive through the mid palate, like chewing the very pith of summer. A contrast of fresh and very fine mineral acidity sweeps in and makes another sip inevitable. Nowhere else makes stuff like this. Andalusia here I come.

15% alcohol. Cork. $55.

96 points.

2000 De Bortoli Yarra Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

I remember the year 2000 was a good one for the variety that does so well in the Yarra Valley. This bottle was a bit of a gamble at auction. Who knows where it’s been slumbering through many hot summers? Add the lottery of cork and the chances of a duff bottle increase to the point of not risking a huge bid. It was enough to score what turned out to be a tiring but still very lovely bottle. Loads of reliable Cabernet leaf, cedar and tobacco with plenty of cassis and red fruit plumping up the cushion of those fine Yarra Cabernet tannins. A pleasing roundness and resolution with age. A sort of savoury sweetness, if that makes sense? Maybe the flavours are very different but Yarra Valley Cabernet can produce a lingering sensation of timelessness just like some Bordeaux does, at a fraction of the price.

13.% alcohol. Cork. $30 at auction.

93 points.

2019 Giovanni Rosso Esther Canale Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo

I do get to drink incredibly well sometimes thanks to friends’ extreme generosity. I did at first think, so, you’ve only opened a Langhe Rosso while I’ve dug a 2010 Boschis Via Nuova out for you. Teach me to be so unkind. The Boschis Barolo was malty, muddy and horribly oxidised, not the first 2010 to be disappointing. To be honest, I did have a vague memory of Giovanni Rosso making a Langhe from a cru vineyard and it being a bit special, and not cheap. Turns out this comes from a cherished Rosso family plot in Vigna Rionda no less. And what a fine glass of wine it was. So finely wrought. All the best possible sweet red cherries dusted in perfumed sweet spices. A lift of flowers to fill out the edges. The essence of summer fruit is backed up by a savoury nut paste. In shape, sort of like Grand Cru Burg, inasmuch as there’s enormous flavour that just floats on fine tannin of great finesse that dissipates on a long vapour trail of gentle but persistent acidity. Best possible way to forget a dodgy bottle of Barolo.

14% alcohol. Cork. $275 RRP, eek.

96 points.

2015 Domaine Grand Nicolet Côtes du Rhône

Some but certainly not all 2015 CdRs have had a fresh and deeply fruity edge that’s hung on really well with age. Mostly Grenache and Syrah with bits of Carignan and Cinsault it seems, this was a direct import from Nick’s Wine Merchants in Melbourne. For those of us with long memories of local wine retailers from the 1990s, Nick’s was famous for the line, “Nick’s nose knows” and the use of a weird tasting word of their own, “joosy”. They also did well riding the wave of enthusiasm for huge, high alcohol Australian wine. This still looks fresh and alarmingly balanced for a Nick’s offering. Sour cherry, kirsch and a sooty depth that sort of reminds me of the best of Priorat. Pure, fresh and bound by good skin tannin tied to just right acidity. Hanging on well, like Nick’s now solely on line business. Those old shops are much missed for easy access to some good imports. Notice Nick’s are still importing Nicolet. Do wonder if the 2021 is just as “joosy”?

14% alcohol. Cork. $15 a while ago, bargain.

92 points.

2021 Mount Avoca Estate Lagrein

A drive to the Victorian version of the Pyrenees happily included a stop at a warm and welcoming cellar door. The hills aren’t quiet the size of those in Europe but in mid winter they may be as cold. The organic vineyards look well tended by some shivering sheep who hadn’t read the weather advice for farmers or viticulturists considering winter pruning. There’s a good range of wines to taste by a wood fire. Solid, clean and not trying too hard, letting the vineyard speak. This appealed for its rich sour cherry fruit, chocolate tannin and ripe acidity. Opening the bottle at home, there’s much more of that central Victorian mint and eucalyptus lift apparent and a good sappy tang. It always surprises how much tasting at a cellar door can differ from the relative objectivity of home. Nonetheless some lovely fruit here and perhaps an Italian mountain variety that doesn’t mind those rugged gum tree covered hills. Seems it’s the local cockatoos’ favourite grape too.

If you’re travelling in a Pyrenees way, an enthusiastic recommendation for the Avoca Hotel. Great food and a spectacular wine list. Wish there were more country pubs as good.

13% alcohol. Screw cap. $30 at the cellar door.

92 points.