2016 Roccafiore Melograno Umbria Rosso IGT

Sometimes simple, fresh and crunchy is just what the table needs. Straightforward red cherries with some considerable bracing acidity. Spotlessly clean and perfumed, it’s great to see low alcohol and strict acid grip in a modern version of what good basic Chianti was in rose tinted hindsight. A recent 2015 vintage from an osteria wine list was richer, more delicious and led to a reflexive grab for this from the shelf. Despite being a bit washy, a touch dilute and maybe young viney, this disappeared deliciously quickly with the inevitable Ital carbs and veg.

12.50% alcohol and Diam, good combination. 8 euros in the lovely Perugia superdeli of Umbró.

88 points.

2013 Fontanafredda Barolo

17.80 euros from the top shelf of a Conad supermercato in Umbria. 2013 too made resistance useless despite having only gone in for milk and bananas. If only the two dominant Australian chains were as much fun. This was clean typically Langhe nebb   with all the cherries, florals and earthy bits in the right places. Hung on well for two days with good ripe acidity and some grippy but yielding tannin. Possibly missing the rear end depth and intensity of what makes great Barolo and could be taken for a very good Langhe regional. Not complaining for the price, although perhaps not a match for bananas.

14% alcohol. Cork. 17.80 euros precisely.

91 points.

2016 Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo

A familiar and loved label for clean reliable and extremely food friendly white wine.  It seems so much good Italian white is more about texture than flavour and this ain’t no exception notwithstanding the lovely citrus and almond paste essences that get swept away by delicious acidity. So clean and fresh. Beautiful package as usual both outside and in. Widely available in Italian supermarkets, hooray.

12.50% alcohol. Can’t remember if cork or diam, have to buy more to check. 12 euros.

89 points

2015 Azienda Agricola Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Rosso

Easier to drink the contents than pronounce the producer. 60% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 25% Merlot. With the happily confounding exception of vino Piemontese which seems to carry its alcohol with grace, anything over 14% in la Bella Italia tastes a bit prune like to this aging dissolute and a pass for something with a declared 13.50% or less. So this at the declared limit does seem crisper and fresh red fruited. Cherries, walnuts and a touch of sweeter raspberry clamped to good food loving acid and tannins make it seem like southern Tuscany without the ambitious price tag and the sometime scent of the stable. From the Italian supermarket, Conad, which seems happier hunting than trying to find good retail enoteche in Umbria. Maybe the locals buy direct?

13.50%. Diam! 12 euros.

91 points