2017 Monoprix Supermarket Alsace Riesling put in the bottle by Ruhlman of Dambach la Ville

It’s an euro more than the supermarket’s basic Alsatian, so organic it is and never mind the expense. For once a lucky strike. Clean, fresh and some real fruit with a nicely tense balance of good ripe acidity and maybe a touch of residual. Seems dryish though. Mid mouth the citrusy apples and Alsace spice swell but just waver a bit towards the end. The acid pulls it back into shape and keeps things tidy. Satisfying Riesling for next to nowt. Eee, that were luxury.

12.50% alcohol. Cork and doesn’t la belle France love them. 9 euros!

90 points.

2017 Terre del Barolo Le Terre Langhe Nebbiolo

From a cooperative that’s said to produce 40% of Barolo’s output, this is bright, sparklingly clean and extremely hard to stop drinking. After some more vaunted DOCGs that have been spoilt by dirty wood and bitter sulphides, it’s good to be reminded that the Langhe’s fruit quality is simply as good as any. Fresh red cherry, rose oil, and tarry road stones finish with a crispy smack that begs eggy spaghetti. No great depth but for the price tag it’s brilliant. Why can’t Australian supermercati import this?

14% alcohol. Didn’t see the stopper. 15 euros on a Torino osteria list!

90 points.

 

2016 G D Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo

That odd looking blob in the photo is a black truffle from Alba’s frenzied, annual fungal excess. This year the small white versions were even more expensive than a bottle of Barolo. Moderation being a virtue, a small tartufo nero, a basic risotto and a regional Nebb were a paragon of restraint. This Vajra Nebbiolo is better than many a Barolo and the fungus was fresh and very smelly, heaven on a budget indeed. 2016 looks like a blessing and the Vajras are really on form. Forward, crunchy, perfumed fruit and immediately delicious, things only got better and deeper over three days. Beautifully judged extraction brought the fruit centre stage but the tannins are just so perfectly ripe and deep that the thought of a longer stewed 2016 Barolo is just toe curling. Great cherry flavour, florals, Piemonte stones, perfectly sanitary acidity and those tannins.

14.00% alcohol. Diam I think, pay attention at the back. 19.90 euros.

93 punti but extra for sheer stylee.

2016 Ar Pe Pe Rosso di Valtellina

Ah, Pe Pe. A post through Rosso tinted glasses. Mountain fresh red fruits of the cherry persuasion, mouthwatering ripe acidity and the finest tannin like licking a lump of granite if you were silly enough to do so. Alpine strawberries and herbs on fine porcelain bones. Delicate but haunting.  So pure and goes a notch up in deliciousness with a bowl of Valtellina pizzoccheri. Buckwheat pasta with more butter and cheese than you may care to know. Not going to argue with the local opinion that this fine Nebbiolo helps the fat go down.

A visit to this fiercely intelligent and proud producer was a rare joy. Such poise and light handed precision in vineyard detail was a treat all the way up to the top of the crus. Infernally tasty. Sondrio’s a beautiful Alpine town even in a freezing autumn deluge. Badly smitten.

13.50% alcohol I think, tastes less. Cork. 20 euros on the list.

91 points but preferred to many mega point pan galactic gargle blasters.

A second bottle at home in Melbourne was equally delicious. Better the third day, clean, exquisitely perfumed mountain Nebbiolo. Geologists forgive me but it’s seriously rocky. If it were possible to lick an Alp, then perhaps it would be thus?

92 punti but what a wine of place.

2016 Vietti Barbera d’Alba Tre Vigne

Impeccable Vietti again. Sweetly ripe enough for immediate appeal but still plenty of  geological Piemontese..er…rocks, minerals. Poised acidity and a perfect tweak of very tasteful oak flavour and tannin. Fruit flavours are dark cherry and sort of red plum. Really would normally go for Dolcetto but Vietti put such care into Barbera it’s hard to say no when a Conad supermercato has just one bottle left.

14.00% alcohol. Diam. 12.50 euros believe it or not.

92 points.

2017 De Fermo Concrete Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

The full Monty of low fi wine production and a very successful one. All the bramble fruit, briar and deep extract of Abruzzo’s own great value but fresh, juicy and pure fruited too. Little bit of that low sulphur yeasty breath but clean gorgeous fruit charges forth and finishes with a dark summer pudding burst of fresh acidity and grainy, firm Monty tannin. None of the variety’s volcanic reductiveness either. Really good grapes and hands off in such a good way.

13.50% alcohol. Cork. 15 euros.

94 points.

NV Fattoria Moretto Canova Lambrusco Grasperossa di Castelvetro

Lambrusco is about to become as fashionable as skin contact, no sulphur, bottled on a full moon straight from the amphora drinks, really. Well, this is organic, low intervention, single vineyard and only 6000 bottles this year. Tart, sweetly austere dark cherries, yeast and something dark and earthy. Seems a bit wound up in its own spritz and didn’t budge much over two days. Of the two most important Lambrusci varieties it’s accepted that Grasperossa is the dark, tannic assertive one and this sure bears that out. A couple of aperitivi Sorbaras have really looked a completely different grape. Pale, strawberries and like a rosé fizz. This was scrumptious with local piggy bits and cheese. Great cut with full but not sour acid and tannin. So unhip it’s a super bargain. Lucky Modenese, food from heaven and this.

12% alcohol. Cork. 8.90 euros!

91 points.

2016 Josetta Saffirio Langhe Nebbiolo

From the passionate and welcoming enoteca La Bottega dei Golosi in Modena this gnome sized producer’s Monforte grown Nebb is pale ruby and perfumed. Bit sulky to start but in three days it just kept softening to a delicious red fruited crisp whole. In no way dense or profound but still true to place, evenly ripe and rose fragrant. Fresh red cherries and a hint of earth as well. Pure and sort of oxymoronically delicate for Monforte. It made good left over pizza taste even better.

14% alcohol. One of those horrible, should be a law against them, 1+1 corks. 14 euros.

90 points.

2015 Paolo Francesconi Limbecca Romagna Sangiovese Superiore

The first attempt to drink this was horribly thwarted by a foul cork. Trudging back to the friendly enoteca in Ferrara whence it came for a replacement and the second try was stymied by there being no more in the shop, no chance. So, third time lucky. Eating out in the riches of Emilia-Romagna it’s often worth asking for some advice if you fancy something local, even Lambrusco so close to home is really good, honest. Funny and great to see this again recommended and what a bottle of wine. Screamingly proper, clean, deep and meaningful Sangiovese. Extravagant savoury  perfume and a profound depth of maraschino cherries, walnut, earth, almonds, bitter chocolate and almost pomegranate flood the brain. Alive, fresh and clean. Rich and ripe tannins meshed to mouthwatering acidity. Fantastic balance. Well positioned in this year’s greatest hits. Bravissimo indeed. Biodynamic too.

Think about 14% alcohol. Cork prone to disgrace. Unbelievable 24 euros on the wine list, 13 retail! Still rarely possible to find great wine at an amazing price.

96 punti deliciosi.

 

2010 Antica Azienda Agricola Paolo Bea San Valentino Umbria Rosso

A very belated post from some time spent in ancient and timeless Perugia that this ancient but sadly not timeless blog forgot to write, oops. After going on about avoiding high alcohols this largely Sangiovese from the long term cult of Bea was going to be interesting. A lot has been written about this fastidious, hard to find producer but I’ve only quickly tasted two of their Sagrantinos at a trade do. Autumnal bottle age and kirsch soaked leathery cherries in a rich and full body. Wham and thump. The ending does seem thinned and hot in a chocolate and fortified way. Some acidity still waves in vain as it sinks below the swell of fumes. Some old oak and clean too. Perhaps this style better suits the broad heft of Sagrantino than Sangiovese. Needs those full jammy blackberries. Coughing up the extra euros may have been worth it? Nonetheless, great to taste something made in an uncompromising and individual way.

15% alcohol. Cork. 30 euros.

Sort of 93 points in a stand back and admire way.