Last night of a good trip to Italy and a wistful feeling as the last bottle hits the street recycling bin in old and wise Bologna. Such a good surprise, it made up for the disappointment of a much anticipated bottle from a maker whose Sangio from 2015 was pure pleasure. The most recent vintage I enthusiastically bought had fallen foul of barnyard and bandages, not a good reacquaintance. The enoteca where I found the let down also recommended this, from a very high up in the hills vineyard. Elegant, they said. After a bit of a worryingly pongy start, that sort of sulphury and yeasty rawness that seems usual in low fi making, much relief and enjoyment as some just ripe but fruit sweet and cleanish Sangiovese burst forth. Only just medium bodied but full of finely concentrated sour cherry, almond and sweet leather. Fresh and crisp, just right blood orange acidity and fine grip. All the flavour but none of the baggage of oaky over ripeness. Nice way to end a visit to Italy where the regional variations are a delicious way to be kept on your toes.
13% alcohol. Cork. €25.
94 points.
