It certainly doesn’t have the excitement of Paris or the self importance of London but Frankfurt airport makes for a pleasant and much less fraught hub when arriving on a long haul from south east Asia. Made a lot more pleasing by the realisation that two of Germany’s great wine areas are on the doorstep, Rheingau and Rheinhessen. From a bit of reading, it seems 19th century Rheinhessen was famous for the quality of its Pinot Noir, particularly the area around Ingelheim where Neus have been making Pinot since 1881. The region’s reputation then became quite schizophrenic in the 20th century as it’s also been responsible for an enormous amount of sweet and horrible Liebfraumilch. About the same distance from the airport as downtown Frankfurt is the old town of Mainz, an easy train ride and home to some lovely old school wine bars and a couple of good wine shops. One of which recommended this bottle which more than cheered up a last holiday night in Europe. This entry level bottle in the Neus range, from less than 20kms away, opened a bit reduced but a good airing and a poised and clean mouthful emerged. Cherries, headed in flavours towards those sour Italian sorts, ripe raspberries and a dark stone mineral thing with some roasted baking spices. Excellent shape in some blood orange acidity, fresh and lightly cleansing and just a brush of fine inseparable tannins. Compared to the wild fruit sweetness of Pinot from across the border in Burgundy, this seemed strict and focused, more of a furrowed brow than an insouciant shrug. Oddly like the clichés of national personalities. And like the best sort of Pinot Noir the last half a glass left us wishing an encore.
12.5% alcohol. Ripe at low alcohol, good. Diam, good. €14.50, even better.
93 points.
